Auto Trader

r/Autos - Four Wheels and a Motor

2008.04.05 17:28 r/Autos - Four Wheels and a Motor

Everything Vehicle Related! Cars, Trucks, Racing, Drifting, Projects, Concepts we've got it all!
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2008.03.20 20:49 r/Cars - For Car Enthusiasts

/Cars is the largest automotive enthusiast community on the Internet. We serve as Reddit's central hub for vehicle-related discussion including industry news, reviews, projects, videos, DIY guides, art, advice, stories, and more.
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2013.02.22 19:09 joeyisapest Shitty Car Mods > stupidity on wheels

Post pictures of cars with terrible mods Our Ethos (written Feb 2013): Shitty does not mean bad - Feel free to post shitty mods that are awesome! There are many pieces of junk that we all wish we could own (who wouldn't want a Toyota Tercel with a LS V8 swap?). Just because it's well done, It doesn't mean it's not shitty. Sorry guys stuck in a scene from "The Fast and the furious - 2001" This subreddit is subjective! your idea of shitty isn't everyone's and vice versa.
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2020.12.05 02:44 st2ptrailing Electric-Vehicle Startups Are Wall Street’s Hot New Thing. No Revenue? No Problem.

Just wondering what you thought of this article? Below I pasted this WSJ article dated Oct. 21 2020. It's relevant because NIO, XPEV have been rocketing since Oct 13 2020. Although TSLA will be added to the S&P 500 on Dec. 23 2020, it feels over-valued.
Early this summer, electric-vehicle startups Hyliion Inc., Fisker Inc. and Lordstown Motors Corp. were tiny companies with staff numbers measuring in the dozens. Two had built little more than a prototype. None have reported any revenue.
Today, they are valued at more than $3 billion apiece by stock-market investors. A frenzy has hit the sector. Buoyed by the surge in the stock price of electric-vehicle pioneer Tesla Inc. and a rush of blank-check companies that take startups public, investors are hoping to find the future titans of an auto market transformed by a shift away from the internal-combustion engine.
Two electric-vehicle startups have completed listings in recent months, while a further four electric-vehicle and battery companies have announced plans to do so. These all have little or no revenue. Never before have so many companies with no revenue pursued a public listing at such high valuations, according to data provided by University of Florida finance professor Jay Ritter.

Fully Charged

The stock markets are getting a burst of electric-vehicle companies with no revenue.

Companies at such a nascent stage are inherently risky and are typically funded by venture-capital investors as they build out assembly lines and sales operations. Instead, these startups are going public at a far earlier stage than is standard by merging with blank-check companies, before they have proven that they can manufacture their product or that they have a viable business model. Blank-check companies are publicly traded shell companies that merge with private companies, enabling the private firms to sidestep an initial public offering.
The rush to go public is the “product of a euphoric market,” said Mike Volpi, a partner at venture-capital firm Index Ventures who invests in automotive technology and serves on the board of Fiat Chrysler Automobiles NV. He said new electric-vehicle companies are extremely hard to build in any market, but all the more so now that large traditional auto makers all are focusing on electric. “It’s an industry that lends itself to scale—it’s very difficult for a newer guy to come along,” he said.
Backers of the electric-vehicle companies say the forthcoming electric era of autos has opened the door for a host of new competitors and brands. Regulations in some countries and California requiring more electric vehicles are creating a whole market, investors say, and they are betting the giant auto makers will be unable to pivot fast enough to compete.
A handful of other companies with some revenue in the electric-vehicle industry have recently announced deals to go public. Those include two that reported less than $10 million of revenue in 2019 and a few others with more substantial sales figures.
Even if just one of the startups grows into a big electric-vehicle company, it could be worth tens of billions of dollars, investors say.
Fisker and its backers show revenue projections that make the company’s stock look like a bargain. Fisker projects $13 billion in revenue by 2025, compared with none this year. As of early August it had 49 employees and a prototype. It is ramping up hiring and plans to strike numerous deals with other companies to manufacture cars it designs, Fisker said in securities filings.
One-year-old Lordstown Motors, which plans to make an electric pickup truck, said in an investor presentation that it projects $5.8 billion in revenue in 2024. It reported having about 100 employees as of September.
Before 2020, only five U.S. companies without any sales had ever gone public at a valuation of at least $3 billion, according to data from Mr. Ritter. The average three-year return for companies that go public with no revenue and $1 billion-plus valuations is negative 41%, Mr. Ritter said.
Even Tesla’s stock price—up more than fourfold this year—has baffled many in the sector. Tesla Chief Executive Elon Musk said in May the share price was too high. The company is valued at around $400 billion, roughly five times as much as General Motors Inc. and Ford Inc. combined; it had one-twelfth their combined revenue in 2019. Some backers believe strongly in Mr. Musk as an innovator and that Tesla’s head start will give it a substantial market share in a future dominated by electric vehicles.
Critics of the electric-vehicle investor enthusiasm point to Nikola Corp. , which intends to build trucks powered by hydrogen fuel cells and batteries. After Nikola went public in June through a special-purpose acquisition company—a SPAC, as the blank-check companies are called—its valuation briefly surpassed $30 billion, making it worth more than Ford.
A report by a short seller in September alleging that Nikola exaggerated elements of its technology and progress sent the company’s stock down more than 50%. Nikola’s founder and then-executive chairman resigned amid the fallout. Both have denied allegations of fraud.
Blake Denton, 25 years old, trades stocks on the Robinhood app. After watching Nikola’s ascent, he figured other electric-vehicle companies might follow a similar path given the enthusiasm from retail traders. He learned about Hyliion, which plans to mass produce electric drivetrains for semi-trucks, while looking through posts on the online message board Reddit. The company announced a deal to go public in June by merging with a SPAC called Tortoise Acquisition Corp., and buzz began to grow online, with some thinking it could be the next Nikola.
“I had invested in Hyliion on pure hype—literally pure hype,” Mr. Denton said. “I knew nothing about the company.” He said he sold after the price went up and made about $50,000.
Hyliion CEO Thomas Healy, 28, began gradually putting together plans to make a natural gas-and-battery-powered drivetrain that didn’t need diesel after he graduated from Carnegie Mellon University with a mechanical-engineering degree. He founded the company in 2015, and as of June it had 52 employees, according to regulatory filings. It has raised $50 million, according to research firm Pitchbook.
Hyliion has produced fewer than two dozen of its initial product, a hybrid drivetrain Hyliion says turns trucks into something like a Toyota Prius. It has announced sales orders for more than 1,200 units of a more advanced electric drivetrain, which it hasn’t built yet. It projects no substantial revenue before 2022.
Hyliion sought to raise money this spring, and the investment bank advising it connected the company with Tortoise, which agreed to lead an investment of $560 million at a $1.6 billion valuation, Hyliion said in securities filings.
After the deal was announced, Tortoise’s shares soared. Numerous posts on the Reddit forums frequented by Mr. Denton were devoted to SHLL, the company’s stock ticker. On YouTube, amateur stock pickers made videos hyping Hyliion’s promise. One called “Buy SHLL stock now?? In-depth Hyliion analysis” has more than 100,000 views. The deal was completed this month. Hyliion has a market capitalization of around $3.5 billion.
Mr. Healy said he is trying to ignore YouTube and Reddit—though he has seen some of the videos—and stay focused on the company. “Don’t get distracted by all that—don’t get distracted by the share price,” Mr. Healy said.
submitted by st2ptrailing to investing_discussion [link] [comments]


2020.12.05 02:41 st2ptrailing Electric-Vehicle Startups Are Wall Street’s Hot New Thing. No Revenue? No Problem.

Just wondering what you thought of this article? Below I pasted this WSJ article dated Oct. 21 2020. It's relevant because NIO, XPEV have been rocketing since Oct 13 2020. Although TSLA will be added to the S&P 500 on Dec. 23 2020, it feels over-valued.
Early this summer, electric-vehicle startups Hyliion Inc., Fisker Inc. and Lordstown Motors Corp. were tiny companies with staff numbers measuring in the dozens. Two had built little more than a prototype. None have reported any revenue.
Today, they are valued at more than $3 billion apiece by stock-market investors. A frenzy has hit the sector. Buoyed by the surge in the stock price of electric-vehicle pioneer Tesla Inc. and a rush of blank-check companies that take startups public, investors are hoping to find the future titans of an auto market transformed by a shift away from the internal-combustion engine.
Two electric-vehicle startups have completed listings in recent months, while a further four electric-vehicle and battery companies have announced plans to do so. These all have little or no revenue. Never before have so many companies with no revenue pursued a public listing at such high valuations, according to data provided by University of Florida finance professor Jay Ritter.

Fully Charged

The stock markets are getting a burst of electric-vehicle companies with no revenue.

Companies at such a nascent stage are inherently risky and are typically funded by venture-capital investors as they build out assembly lines and sales operations. Instead, these startups are going public at a far earlier stage than is standard by merging with blank-check companies, before they have proven that they can manufacture their product or that they have a viable business model. Blank-check companies are publicly traded shell companies that merge with private companies, enabling the private firms to sidestep an initial public offering.
The rush to go public is the “product of a euphoric market,” said Mike Volpi, a partner at venture-capital firm Index Ventures who invests in automotive technology and serves on the board of Fiat Chrysler Automobiles NV. He said new electric-vehicle companies are extremely hard to build in any market, but all the more so now that large traditional auto makers all are focusing on electric. “It’s an industry that lends itself to scale—it’s very difficult for a newer guy to come along,” he said.
Backers of the electric-vehicle companies say the forthcoming electric era of autos has opened the door for a host of new competitors and brands. Regulations in some countries and California requiring more electric vehicles are creating a whole market, investors say, and they are betting the giant auto makers will be unable to pivot fast enough to compete.
A handful of other companies with some revenue in the electric-vehicle industry have recently announced deals to go public. Those include two that reported less than $10 million of revenue in 2019 and a few others with more substantial sales figures.
Even if just one of the startups grows into a big electric-vehicle company, it could be worth tens of billions of dollars, investors say.
Fisker and its backers show revenue projections that make the company’s stock look like a bargain. Fisker projects $13 billion in revenue by 2025, compared with none this year. As of early August it had 49 employees and a prototype. It is ramping up hiring and plans to strike numerous deals with other companies to manufacture cars it designs, Fisker said in securities filings.
One-year-old Lordstown Motors, which plans to make an electric pickup truck, said in an investor presentation that it projects $5.8 billion in revenue in 2024. It reported having about 100 employees as of September.
Before 2020, only five U.S. companies without any sales had ever gone public at a valuation of at least $3 billion, according to data from Mr. Ritter. The average three-year return for companies that go public with no revenue and $1 billion-plus valuations is negative 41%, Mr. Ritter said.
Even Tesla’s stock price—up more than fourfold this year—has baffled many in the sector. Tesla Chief Executive Elon Musk said in May the share price was too high. The company is valued at around $400 billion, roughly five times as much as General Motors Inc. and Ford Inc. combined; it had one-twelfth their combined revenue in 2019. Some backers believe strongly in Mr. Musk as an innovator and that Tesla’s head start will give it a substantial market share in a future dominated by electric vehicles.
Critics of the electric-vehicle investor enthusiasm point to Nikola Corp. , which intends to build trucks powered by hydrogen fuel cells and batteries. After Nikola went public in June through a special-purpose acquisition company—a SPAC, as the blank-check companies are called—its valuation briefly surpassed $30 billion, making it worth more than Ford.
A report by a short seller in September alleging that Nikola exaggerated elements of its technology and progress sent the company’s stock down more than 50%. Nikola’s founder and then-executive chairman resigned amid the fallout. Both have denied allegations of fraud.
Blake Denton, 25 years old, trades stocks on the Robinhood app. After watching Nikola’s ascent, he figured other electric-vehicle companies might follow a similar path given the enthusiasm from retail traders. He learned about Hyliion, which plans to mass produce electric drivetrains for semi-trucks, while looking through posts on the online message board Reddit. The company announced a deal to go public in June by merging with a SPAC called Tortoise Acquisition Corp., and buzz began to grow online, with some thinking it could be the next Nikola.
“I had invested in Hyliion on pure hype—literally pure hype,” Mr. Denton said. “I knew nothing about the company.” He said he sold after the price went up and made about $50,000.
Hyliion CEO Thomas Healy, 28, began gradually putting together plans to make a natural gas-and-battery-powered drivetrain that didn’t need diesel after he graduated from Carnegie Mellon University with a mechanical-engineering degree. He founded the company in 2015, and as of June it had 52 employees, according to regulatory filings. It has raised $50 million, according to research firm Pitchbook.
Hyliion has produced fewer than two dozen of its initial product, a hybrid drivetrain Hyliion says turns trucks into something like a Toyota Prius. It has announced sales orders for more than 1,200 units of a more advanced electric drivetrain, which it hasn’t built yet. It projects no substantial revenue before 2022.
Hyliion sought to raise money this spring, and the investment bank advising it connected the company with Tortoise, which agreed to lead an investment of $560 million at a $1.6 billion valuation, Hyliion said in securities filings.
After the deal was announced, Tortoise’s shares soared. Numerous posts on the Reddit forums frequented by Mr. Denton were devoted to SHLL, the company’s stock ticker. On YouTube, amateur stock pickers made videos hyping Hyliion’s promise. One called “Buy SHLL stock now?? In-depth Hyliion analysis” has more than 100,000 views. The deal was completed this month. Hyliion has a market capitalization of around $3.5 billion.
Mr. Healy said he is trying to ignore YouTube and Reddit—though he has seen some of the videos—and stay focused on the company. “Don’t get distracted by all that—don’t get distracted by the share price,” Mr. Healy said.
submitted by st2ptrailing to askcarsales [link] [comments]


2020.12.04 23:23 randomg1337 Car Insurance + Payment draining me, how can I get out of this hell?

Before you point out how stupid I am, I will be the first one to admit that I am. About 6 months ago, I got myself into the worse financial position of my life, I got a BMW which is about 330 per month, over 7 years. I am currently paying 600$ per month on insurance and with the current state of thing, I cannot see myself handle a few more months. Does anyone have any tips on how to sell a car that you are financing? I owe about 23k on the car right now and after browsing online on auto trader, I was seeing that my car can go between 18-21k. I did the instant-cash offer on auto trader and the offer was about 17k. Would it be possible to pause the insurance possibly? Any tips will be highly appreciated, I am really regretting some of the life choices I have made but hopefully this will be a good learning experience, and expensive one.
submitted by randomg1337 to PersonalFinanceCanada [link] [comments]


2020.12.04 22:24 arthur_vandelay12 RDO Beginners Guide

I just wrote this huge document for some friends that I'm convincing to start the game and I figured I might as well post it here in case any other new players stumble across it.
If anybody wants to add or correct anything, feel free! I'm fairly new myself so I'm by no means an expert.
Misc tips
When creating your character, put all the points that you can into health. (health is the slowest stat to level up and it's probably the most important one as well.)
There are 2 currencies, cash and gold. gold is the real money currency but there are a number of ways to earn it in-game as well. ONLY spend your gold on unlocking roles. Do not spend it in any other way to begin. ONLY spend your cash on weapons that you really want, ammo, and your ability cards to begin with.
Link your twitch prime with your rockstar account and make sure you properly claim the rewards ASAP. The rewards can take ~5 days to arrive, but one of them is $1000 which will be a big help early on so do this as soon as you can.
Combat
Every gun in the game has to be 'pumped' before taking a shot. the pump can be done by either aiming down the sights or by pressing mouse1. so for example if i want to shoot something, i aim down sights (this auto pumps the gun for my first shot) and i shoot, then while still aiming down the sights, i immediately press shoot again to charge up my next shot. so get in the habit of pressing mouse1 immediately after every shot you take so that your gun instantly pumps itself for the next one. after the pump there will be a split second while the reticle re-focuses so you dont want to spam shoot unless they are super close.
on that note, you can hip fire to be able to shoot a lot faster than trying to do all this with ADS so if someone is really close, you can just spam hipfire at them OR you can sprint towards them and press F (this is the meele button and if u are sprint it will tackle them).
Weapons
Weapons can be bought from the gunsmith or in the catalogue (which I will explain below). There are revolvers, pistols, repeaters (semi auto but can shoot fairly fast), rifles (springfield / bolt action), shotguns, bows, and snipers.
The repeaters and rifles can have scopes added onto them and if they have a scope, they can still toggle between using the scope and not by scrolling up on your mouse while aiming. The snipers come with a scope and cannot toggle the scope off.
IMO the best weapons to have are the bolt action (for hunting bigger animals), a repeater (for fighting PVE or PVP), and a varmint rifle (for hunting smaller animals without destroying their quality). I’d put a medium scope on the BA, and short scope on the repeater.
You start the game with a Carbine Repeater which is a really solid gun, but at around level 13, you unlock the ability to purchase the Lancaster Repeater which is the one I use.
You unlock the ability to purchase the bolt action at level 7 so that should be your first purchase.
There are different ammo types, but you don’t unlock them for a while so stick with regular ammo until you unlock the ability to buy Express ammo and then use that instead.
Every gun is a 1 shot headshot. The BA is 2 body shots, the repeater is 3 body shots (2 if you have express ammo).
Dead Eye Paint it Black does not work while scoped in.
Cores
Your health, stamina, and dead eye (something I will explain later) each has a CORE and a bar. The amount of health/stam/DE that you currently have is a total combination of your core + bar. Your bar is the first to go so if you’re sprinting, your bar will slowly be depleted and if you empty the bar and keep sprinting, your core will start being depleted. You do not want to deplete the core. Cores also deplete slowly over time.
Cores can be replenished by resting at your camp or eating food (each food will tell you how much of which cores it replenishes but most cooked meat will replenish a bit / a lot of all 3).
Meters are replenished over time, but can be quickly restored by using tonics (so if you’re in a fight and your health is low, you should drink a tonic fast before you die).
How full your health core is determines how fast your health bar replenishes itself. Same thing with your stamina core.
Dead eye core + meter work differently. Dead eye bar does not replenish itself over time. You must shoot / kill things to replenish the bar. Headshots replenish more. The core influences how much dead eye meter you get per shot / kill so you want your car to be at least at half.
Horse
Horses also have cores (health and stamina) that work very similarly to the player cores. You can feed your horse to replenish its cores (best normal food is carrots) or you can hitch it on a hitching post or tree to replenish them slowly. You can give your horse stimulants (similar to player tonics) to immediately boost its meter if you need to. Also, at higher level of horse bonding, you can press G while riding your horse to calm it which will give it about a 15% boost to its stamina meter (this can be done once every ~18 seconds).
To speed up your horse, hold shift. To slow down your horse press/hold control. To look behind you on your horse, press C.
To go fast on your horse without depleting stamina, hold shift to get to full speed then release shift while continuing to hold W. This will put your horse in a ‘trot’ which is the fastest it can go without wasting stamina. Until you have better saddle/stirrups, you should always autopilot at a trot so you don’t accidentally deplete your horse’s meter and then core.
Horse stats are broken up into a few different categories: speed, acceleration, stamina, health, and handling. The only one that really matters is stamina because the others don’t actually vary much between horses. These stats are each tied to specific horses, but the most important part of your horse’s performance is the saddle and stirrups. These affect how quickly your horse’s cores and meters drain / replenish. (The most important being stamina meter drain).
Currently, I have the red chestnut Arabian horse (a very solid early game horse) with the Nacogdoches saddle (unlocked at level 35 and gives -35% stamina drain), and stirrups that give -30% stamina drain. With these together, I can hold sprint indefinitely on my horse while pressing G every ~30s to replenish all of the stamina that I lost during that 30s.
The best horses imo are the Arabian (they are the only horses with maximum handling). Red chestnut Arabian is the first one you unlock and costs $250 so it should be one of the earlier purchases you make (after your favourite weapons and ability cards). As soon as you hit level 35, get the Naco saddle and whatever the best stirrups available are.
Dead eye
In single player, when you activate dead eye, time slows down and your dead eye meter starts to deplete. During this time, you can mouse over people to ‘mark’ them (in the location that you moused over them so you want to mouse over their heads). You can mark as many people as your ammo clip will allow and you can mark a person multiple times (so try to just mark each person once on their heads). Once you click shoot (or you’ve marked all of your bullets in your clip) your character will start shooting everyone where you marked them. I believe the more people you mark, the less accurate your shots become. Also, if someone has moved behind cover, you won’t hit them anymore.
The length of time in dead eye + the number of shots taken influences how much of your dead eye meter is used.
In online, you cannot slow down time and there are multiple different things that your dead eye can do. You get to choose a dead eye ‘card’ early on in the game to determine what you want your dead eye to do. For example, one of them causes you to regenerate health while in dead eye, but your shots become less accurate.
The card I use is called Paint It Black, and it works similarly to single player (what i described in the first paragraph of this section). Time doesn’t slow down, but you can mark people and then when you click shoot, they will be shot where you marked. This is really helpful for fighting multiple targets at once or for shooting people who are on horseback / when you are on horseback and they are moving in a hard to predict way. Another useful time for DE is when shooting birds from the sky.
Be aware that if your dead eye meter is at 0, and you use dead eye, it will deplete your core instead which is not what you want. So if your meter is at 0, just shoot normally to charge up the meter before you use dead eye. You can also hunt animals to charge your dead eye up before you go into a fight.
Eagle Eye
Eagle eye is activated the same way as dead eye except that you’re not aiming down the sights when you activate it. Eagle eye doesn’t drain any of your dead eye, but it has a time limit so you can’t be in eagle eye indefinitely (although after it runs out, you just wait a few seconds and then you can go right back in for the full time).
Eagle eye is for tracking. You can see tracking lines on the ground and you can look at the lines to see what animal and what quality it is. You can then follow it to find that animal. Eagle eye also highlights animals and lootable items. At rank 6 of bounty hunter, you learn Eagle Eye+ which lets you sprint / gallop while using eagle eye. Before this, if you start sprinting or galloping, it will cancel eagle eye (or if you activate eagle eye while sprinting / galloping, it will cancel your sprint).
Ability Cards
Like the dead eye card, there are ability cards (passives). You can have 3 ability cards active at a time (4 if you include the dead eye card). You unlock the ability to equip them at levels 10, 25, and 40 I believe. There are 3 categories (offensive, defensive, and some other one idk what it is exactly) that you can cycle through with Q/E. You can equip any of the cards in any of the slots (so all 3 of your cards can be offensive or defensive so just read them all and decide which ones are most appealing to you).
The 3 that I use currently is Iron Lung, Strange Medicine, Fool Me Once. I recommend Iron Lung as the first one, and I definitely recommend Strange Medicine once you unlock it.
Ability cards cost $50 and can be upgraded once you earn enough XP with them equipped. The upgrades cost $350 and then $500 and max at level 3. Spending cash on ability card upgrades is very worthwhile on the cards that you like.
Autopilot (Cinematic mode)
When riding your horse while you have a ‘path’ (the red or yellow line on the minimap showing guiding you to your location), you can hold V to enter cinematic mode. Cinematic mode will put your horse in autopilot so you can look through menus or your inventory or even alt tab while you head towards your destination.
You can be attacked by players, NPCs, or predators (wolves, bears, cougars) while in autopilot so be aware and listen to the game sounds at the very least.
To set a destination manually, you can open the map and press Enter while mousing over where you want to go.
The autopilot isn’t perfect so try to get yourself on the path before you hold V and after it begins, watch it for a few seconds to make sure it’s working properly.
If your horse is in a full sprint when you begin autopilot (or you hold Shift after autopilot begins), your horse will continue sprinting and you run the risk of depleting the stamina and stamina core of your horse which you do not want to do.
Autopilot works on wagons as well, but if you’re on a wagon and you open the start menu or the map, autopilot will be cancelled for some reason. On your horse, it doesn’t get cancelled by either of these actions.
Roles and Gold
There are 5 different roles (bounty hunter, trader, moonshiner, collector, naturalist). You can be all the roles at the same time, but they each cost 15g to unlock. 15g takes a decent amount of time unless you know what to do specifically to earn gold. bounty missions are really good for gold (but bounty hunter is a role that you need 15g to unlock). even when you're not a bounty hunter, you can join a posse (group) where the leader is a bounty hunter and then they can start bounty missions that you get the rewards for as well. so when playing with me, we will mostly spam bounty missions and imo the first role you should unlock is bounty hunter so that when you're playing with other friends without me, you can do the same.
There are matchmade deathmatch / tdm (also some other game modes like horse racing, fishing, king of the castle, etc) type games called Series. these series give some cash+xp+GOLD when you play them. the gold you get is constant whether you win or lose, but the cash and xp is affected by whether you win or lose. most series i believe give 0.08g per game, but there is a 'featured series' (not sure if there is always one, but for as long as ive been playing there has been) that awards 0.16g per game.
Catalogue
The catalogue can be accessed at any time by holding J. You can buy most things in the game through the catalogue so instead of going to the gunsmith to buy a gun / ammo, you can just get it through the catalogue.
When you buy something in the catalogue, it will either be instantly put onto your horse or in a mailbox. Weapons go to your horse, but ammo and many other things go to your mailbox. Mailboxes can be found near / in most towns and also there is one in your camp. The best thing to do for ammo is to buy a ton of ammo with the catalogue and then any time you need to refill, just visit a mailbox and it will refill you.
You can also access the catalogue in your browser if you’re logged into your account at https://socialclub.rockstargames.com/games/rdr2/catalogue/online/ .
Hunting
for hunting animals: animals have a condition (1 star = poor, 2 start = good, 3 start = perfect). when you aim at the animal, their name and condition will appear in the bottom right of your screen. when you kill the animal, based on how many shots it took you to kill them + what weapon type you used, you'll either retain their full condition or lower their condition (for example if you use a bolt action and headshot a deer, they wont lose any condition, but if you use a bolt action on a squirrel or a rabbit, they will lose condition. or if you try to kill a deer but it takes 2-3 shots to kill them, they'll also lose condition).
the condition of them is how valuable their parts / carcass will be.
after killing an animal, you can either pick them up or skin them. really small animals will be picked up and put into your satchel. bigger animals (like some bigger birds or rabbits / raccoons) can be picked up and then you have to carry them to your horse. your horse can carry 2 of these animals (1 on either side of the saddle). bigger again animals (like deer, cougars, small aligators and foxes) can be picked up and put onto the back of your horse. your horse can only store 1 of these animals at a time. the biggest animals (like bears, buffalo, moose, big alligators) cannot be picked up and can only be skinned.
when you skin an animal, you get its pelt + some of its meat + some misc items like feathers / horns / teeth. if the animal is small, the pelt will go into your satchel. if the animal is bigger (the ones that go onto the back of your horse), you will start carrying the pelt and you can place it onto the back of your horse UNDER the carcass (meaning you can have pelts + a carcass on the back of your horse. idk how many pelts u can have on it at once but its a lot so you can carry many pelts as well as a deer carcass). the biggest animal that can only be skinned, their pelt actually takes up the carcass slot on your horse. so you cant have a deer carcass + bear pelt at the same time for example.
you sell all of these animal parts to butchers which are scattered around the map in most towns. so if you're hunting or just heading to a town and want to collect some animals on the way, you fill up your horse then go to the butcher and sell everything to him. you can sell the meat or find a campfire (at your camp or in the wild) to cook the meat into food that u can eat to replenish your cores.
it is more profitable to skin animals than to keep them whole. after skinning an animal, you can still pickup its skinned carcass and carry that the same as if you hadn't skinned it. so for profit, you kill a deer, skin it, then put the pelt on your horse, then pickup the skinne carcass and put that on your horse and sell all of it.
once you've filled up your horse, you can kill one more bigger animal (deer sized) and then without skinning it, you can get on your horse and throw your lasso at the whole carcass. this will allow you to drag the carcass behind your horse so you can bring 2 deers at once (one on your horse and one on your lasso). if it gets caught on a rock or something then you will stop dragging it so pay attention to this and go back and re-lasso if it happens. also if you need to pull your gun out, you will leave the carcass behind so again after u finish the fight, go lasso it again.
when selling to the butcher, you will be able to sell anything in your bag, on your shoulder, or on your horse if your horse is close enough to the butcher. if something is on the ground, u wont be able to sell it so make sure u pick it up and then talk to the butcher.
Treasure Maps
Treasure maps are something that you get from certain rank ups (in your mailbox) or randomly from looting enemy NPCs (low chance but does happen). Viewing the treasure map from your satchel will show you on your map the area that the treasure will be located. Within this area, there are about 4 different spawn locations. You can use www.rdr2map.com to see where those 4 locations are.
When you find the treasure, you will get ~0.7-1.4g and ~$60-$150 as well as some items. These give more gold than anything else so whenever you get a treasure map you should do it fairly quickly. I believe they also give XP.
Sessions
When you load in, you are put into a ‘session’. My understanding of a session is basically a ‘server’ or a pool of players that share the same world. Every time you load in, you’re put in a new session. Anytime you change sessions, you lose everything on your horse and your dead eye meter is set to 0. However, you keep everything on your person and your cores stay the same.
Fast Travel
If you want to go somewhere (such as your camp or a specific region in the world), and you aren’t worried about losing any items on your horse, you can open the start menu and click the Online tab. The top row will have a button for your Camp, and the bottom row will have buttons for Free Roam for any of the 5 regions. These free roams will spawn you in a random location within that region. This is free, but it’s a new session so you lose everything on your horse and your dead eye meters goes to 0.
If you want to travel to somewhere specific or you don’t want to lose the items on your horse, you can find a Fast Travel post and use that post to fast travel. You will have to pay (the amount depends on how far you are traveling, but anywhere from $1-$15). This travel will keep you in the same session.
Once you have the bounty hunter role, you will also have a Bounty Hunter button in the top row of the Online menu which will spawn you near a random bounty hunting board
Weapon Bindings
By default, your weapon and item slots are bound to 1-8, but they aren’t bound very well. You can also access your weapons by holding TAB to access the weapon wheel or by using your scroll wheel to cycle through the weapon wheel. None of these are very efficient.
I recommend going into the keybinding settings (settings, controls, pc controls, key mapping) then scroll until you see the numbers. Left sidearm = your revolver (at level 25 you can start dual wielding sidearms in which case you’d use the dual wield sidearm binding instead), Shoulder slot = the left slot on your weapon wheel (I keep my bolt action here), Back slot = the bottom slot on your weapon wheel (I keep my repeater / varmint rifle in this slot).
My bindings are as follows: 1 = Shoulder (BA) 2 = Back (repeater / varmint rifle) 3 = Sidearm (revolver) 4 = Un-armed (this is handy for reasons I will describe momentarily) Mouse4 = Thrown (my lasso for easily pulling it out during bounty missions)
One really annoying part of the game is that when you have multiple weapons in the same slot (like when you are on your horse so you can cycle through all your weapons or if you have multiple throwing weapons like a lasso and dynamite), if you click the binding for that slot multiple times, it will cycle through the different weapons in that slot.
To be more clear about why that’s annoying, say you are on your horse and you have BA on your shoulder and repeater on your back. You press 2 to bring out your repeater. Now you ride your horse for a bit and you aren’t sure your repeater is out already so you press 2 again to bring it out. But since it was already out, it cycles that slot to a different weapon that was stowed on your horse and you pull out a shotgun instead. You now go to shoot someone in the head with your repeater but you are actually using a shotgun.
Another example is if you are trying to lasso someone so you push your throwing weapon button, but your lasso was already out so now you have dynamite in your hand. You throw the lasso at your target but it’s actually dynamite and you blow it up and maybe even blow yourself up.
For this reason, I try to get in the habit of always switching to un-armed (by pressing 4) whenever I want to make sure I don’t have anything out. Another thing that helps is to look up in the top right corner to see which weapon you have out (it doesn’t explicitly tell you your weapon, but it shows the number of ammo and the ammo type icon which can usually tell you which weapon you have).
Bounty Hunting
The main resource for bounty hunting I use is this post: https://www.reddit.com/RedDeadOnline/comments/e4mwj9/bounty_hunter_payouts_and_tips/
submitted by arthur_vandelay12 to RedDeadOnline [link] [comments]


2020.12.04 20:32 SuperHotUKDeals 7 Days to Die PC £6.99 at CDKeys

The description of this deal was not provided by this subreddit and it's contributors.
£6.99 - CDKeys
The top 3 reasons to play 7 Days to DieExplore a horrifying open-world experience in 7 Days to Die.Engage in exciting gameplay including first-person shooter mechanics, survival horror, tower defense and role-playing.Experience the ultimate horror adventure and survive against the deadly hordes.About 7 Days to Die
submitted by SuperHotUKDeals to HotUKGamingDeals [link] [comments]


2020.12.04 17:45 Thom-John Tips for new players and some stuff I wish I had known as a newbie.

[What to spend your money on?] - In my opinion you should get:
That's all I could come up with for now. I will add more things if I come up with something else.
submitted by Thom-John to RedDeadOnline [link] [comments]


2020.12.04 14:40 dmarques [Car Question] I own my 11 year old car, what threshold do I need to meet before thinking of replacing the car?

-No more car payments -Only paying insurance premiums and gas -Car has regular oil changes, tire and brake maintenance -The occasional non routine fix in the range 500 - 1000 every 2 years
I know the rule of thumb is to assess when your monthly payments are exceeded by maintenance costs. Another is when the cost to fix you car exceeds it's actual value. My car is probably worth $5000 - $6000 based on AutoTrader
Just wanted to get some tips on how to approach this situation going forward. I'm pretty environmentally conscious when it comes to these types of decisions so I usually lean on keeping things rather than throwing them away. I'm also looking into a hybrid or electric vehicle for my next vehicle as well, which obviously comes at a much higher price point.
submitted by dmarques to PersonalFinanceCanada [link] [comments]


2020.12.04 04:06 Legit_llama73 The Ultimate guide to Winter and Christmas Time Shopping in Pixel Gun 3D

Said I was going to do a Christmas guide to purchasing weapons around this time of year.
I’m going to create a key, or code letters to save me time
OBG: Only buy for gallery, don’t buy these unless you want really want the coupons.
MB: Must buy
UTY: up to you. Average weapons
LR: Llama recommends
I’ll also say what playstyle the weapon is
First, I’m going to list all of the weapons. This will be all the winteChristmas grade legendary weapons that are released in just the traders van. I’m not including mythical weapons that are usually in lotteries. Grind the lotteries, don’t waste currency on them. Here they are and my recommendations:
—————————————————————————————————————
Primary:
Evil snowman: OBG Casual
Oh deer: UTY. I personally like this one. It’s the definition of average, but it’s fun and festive. Casual
Ice king fury: OBG casual
Gift stitcher: MB it’s an epic shotgun with pretty good damage, and no delay. Longest range shotgun in the game, but don’t ever rely on that. All play styles
Cooler: UTY. Similar to oh deer. It’s an average auto. Casual
Saturn: OBG all play styles
—————————————————————————————————————
Backup:
Ice cream pistol: OBG causal
New Years defender: LR casual. It’s a super fun automatic backup and it’s top 3 automatic backups for me. If you have currency to spare and want something fun, get this.
Gifted revolvers: OBG casual
—————————————————————————————————————
Melee
Candy axe: OBG casual
Ice paws: LR Casual. Outclassed by top mythical melees, but super lethal. If you are considering getting this, get it.
Cake with whip: UTY all play styles. It’s a reskin of combat yoyo, but seasonal and rare.
—————————————————————————————————————
Special:
Portable gift factory: OBG casual
Festive guitar: OBG casual
Cyrolator: OBG Casual
NOTIK: MB cat spam. I’m not explaining this one, you already know why this is good
Asteroid: UTY. Causal. It’s like Heart of volcanos little special brother but with fixed delay.
Sniper:
Frost shot: UTY all play styles. Input output delay. Can one shot headshot most players, but not people with dev armor. Decent sniper but seriously outclassed
Cold silence: UTY all styles: it’s pretty much frost shot without slowing. Fun fact but I feel like this weapon has a pretty high aim assist stat. I hit nasty random shots with this sniper sometimes.
Comet: OBG cat spam. It isn’t that good
Frozen lich bow: OBG casual
—————————————————————————————————————
Heavy:
Proton freezer: UTY or MB all play styles. It’s good. Not a true must buy, but it’s one of the strongest legendary heavies in game.
Gingerbread homezooka: uh OBG? Casual? I don’t have this and I’ve literally never seen anyone use this. Buy at own risk.
Avalanche: OBG don’t buy unless you need coupons desperately.
Meteor shower: OBG Casual
Yetti Spirit: OBG don’t buy otherwise casual
—————————————————————————————————————
Ok onto the trader van weapons that got skins last year. Same format applies
Primary:
Disc battle station: OBG Casual
Black mamba: OBG casual. Much better options from this van
Pew pew rifle: UTY casual: good auto. A or S tier
Storm: LR casual: hate realistic mode? Just get storm. It’s also a decent primary, but not a must buy
Stormtrooper exo: MB all play styles: if you like autos then get storm exo. It is an easy S tier and it’s one of my favorites. If you don’t like autos, then pass on it. It’s no delay
Champion Peacemaker: OBG no playstyles, it sucks.
Viking: MB All play styles. it’s Viking, need I say more?
Ultimatum: MB cat spam/skittle. I hope it doesn’t make a return for the sake of the games health, but if it does return, buy it.
—————————————————————————————————————
Backups:
PSG: UTY Skittle. It’s Pulling sucker gun
Orobourus: OBG casual
Thunderer: MB for cat spam. It’s thunderer
Hitman exo: OBG casual.
Royal Revolver: OBG Casual
—————————————————————————————————————
Melee:
It’s literally just the chipping whip. UTY. Not really worth it in my option but the entire set effect is great.
—————————————————————————————————————
Special:
It’s just NOTIk. Once again buy it if you cat spam.
—————————————————————————————————————
Snipers
Laser bow: UTY cat spam. It won’t be mythical I’m guessing. If you want it cuz you missed the recent Black Friday version then buy it.
Once shot: OBG all play styles. Seriously outdated sniper
Anti Champion: UTY all play styles. Not what it once was but still decent. If you don’t have any high impact snipers then buy this.
Overseer: UTY cat spam. I like this sniper but it needs a buff. Buy if you want to add another random sniper to you collection.
Sniper exo: LR Cat spam. Sniper exo is great but outdated
—————————————————————————————————————
Heavy:
Big buddy: UTY all styles. same thing as laser bow. It just came back buy it if you want
Proton freezer: already explained this
Torpedo launcher: UTY casual. Eh. Outdated. Not bad tho
Champion solar cannon: UTY casual. Outdated. That’s all
Ashbringer: MB all styles. It’s ashbringer. You already know it’s good.
—————————————————————————————————————
Last I’ll be going through the 3 event sets that will likely return
Cyber Santa:
Laser assistant: LR recommends. 2nd best auto in the game in my opinion. Highly recommend buying if you like casual autos.
Dual cyros: OBG casual. Don’t get unless it gets a serious buff.
Christmas ultimatum: UTY/MB cat spam/skittle. If you wanna be THAT guy then go for it but just know you won’t make friends only using Christmas ulti. Also there are better options
Cyber Santa armor: only good piece of armor is the boots. Spend gems if you are close to getting it. Don’t spend gems if you aren’t close.
—————————————————————————————————————
Alien Santa
Space devastator: OBG All play styles. Pretty terrible shotgun. No delay is the best thing going for it. Don’t buy unless you want to try to get coupons
Snow blaster: OBG casual. Don’t spend gems on this, you’ll thank me later
Gauntlet of power: LR Casual. Pretty fun heavy. By no means OP nor trash. Fun to use. Don’t buy spend gems unless you really want it.
—————————————————————————————————————
Mouse King Set:
Last Squeak: MB Casual. Best casual shotgun in game
Fierce pack: LR casual. Best automatic backup. Performs like a primary auto. Really solid backup. Get it if you like autos and want a new backup.
Mouse Scepter: OBG casual. Charge nerf killed this. It’s like dds or luxury beats but with charge time
—————————————————————————————————————
There are a decent amount of mythical lottery items, but I’m not going to include whether to buy them or not, since they are lottery items. They make come out in a van, but focus on getting the, from the lotto
Christmas spirit
Spruce pistol
Peppermint guardians
Winter staff
Freon
Ice lightning
Sharp snowflake
Splinter
Frosty railgun
Sock bomber
Automatic decorator
Ice chaser
Sneaky pistol
Coal frightener
—————————————————————————————————————
Ok finally I guess I’m going to add toast years pass weapons since they appear to be making a bullshit return like usual.
Cracker gun: OBG cat spam
Snow queen wand: OBG casual
Epee: MB all styles
Royal marriage officiant: UTY all styles. Decent sniper but outclassed
Ice club: LR recommends skittle. Still very string and it’s a top block crash option.
Hope this guide helped. I’ll probably edit this guide when the skin contest winners are announced. If I forgot anything or have any questions just let me know!
submitted by Legit_llama73 to PixelGun [link] [comments]


2020.12.04 03:07 cheddarjakecheese Need a small car on a small budget.

So, I'm putting myself through college right now and while I have a fair bit of money saved up, I need to save as much as possible still and need my monthly expenses to be as low as possible.
I'm hoping to buy a smaller car, probably a coupe, outright for $3000-5000. I want to get as close to 30mph as possible and not have to fix the damn thing very often. I only live about 5 miles from work but I need to get to Los Angeles a few times a month from my place, which is about 25 miles, and vice versa when I eventually move out to LA. I also need it to last me 5-10 years (probably closer to 10) without breaking down or having any major issues.
I'm told that Hondas and Toyotas are the way to go, but I'm hoping to get some input outside of family members. They've already talked me out of a Fiat 500 which is what I originally wanted just because they're cute, but apparently they're not very reliable.
So what am I realistically looking at? And where should I start? Is the ease of going to a dealership to look at multiple cars at once or should I stick to private owners? And are sites like auto trader, cars.com, etc., worth it to check out or should I steer clear?
I'm 26 and I've never even thought about buying a car before, so I need all the help I can get, so thank you in advance to any help offered.
submitted by cheddarjakecheese to whatcarshouldIbuy [link] [comments]


2020.12.03 20:37 Bugz619 New Openbullet Configs Added to The Config Cloud!

Visit https://openbullet.io/list to view spreadsheet with full info about each config.
7bitcasino Accor Hotels Acorns Adidas Adobe Amex (updated 07/13) Appnana AutoTrader Azure Barnes & Noble Betchain Bitstarz BlueMercury Bonobos Briansclub.cm Car2Go Cardmafia.cm Casey's Rewards Checkout51 Chick-Fil-A (SELENIUM) Chick-Fil-A Codes Gen + Checker Discord Invite Searcher Churches Chicken Disney+ Disqus Dominos Dominos – updated DraftKings Duolingo EatStreet Email Access Email Access Searcher Enterprise Erbert & Gerbert's Gift Card Gen + Checker Facebook Fancy Fandango Fanduel FlexShopper Forever21 Forex Freelancer FWRD FuboTV FuelRewards Gamefly GetUpside GiftCards.com GOAT GoDaddy GoldBelly Golfnow Gift Card Generator + Checker GROUPON GreyHound Rewards GrubHub Guitar Center Gymboree H&M HSN HelloFresh Code Gen + Checker Hilton HobbyLobby HolaVpn HotTopic IcelandAir IngoMoney Insomnia Cookies Instagram API Joann Just4U LevelUp Levis MPGH Mailgun Marcos Pizza Masterclass MeetMe MERCATO MyScripWallet MyTheresa NFL Sunday Ticket (app) Neiman Marcus Nylas OnlineRestaurants OnlyFans Opentable POF PRIVACY PSN Selenium PARTY POKER PACSUN PayOp Penn Subs PikFly PngTree PornHub Pop-Bar GC Gen + Checker Postmates Fleet Proxy Info Checker Ralph Lauren Revolve Web Robinhood Rosegal Samsung Pay (Selenium) ShutterStock Sling Smoothie King Spirit.com Spotify SquareUp Stamps Starbucks MX Stash SWILL STRIPE StopAndShop Stripchat SynergyGiftCards.net TheCut Three.co.uk TigerFitness Tomtop Twitch UFCfightpass Ulta Usenet Valorant Venmo Victorias Secret Vinted VyprVPN Walgreens Walmart Capture Walmart – V2 Wendys Windscribe Xbox Xvideos YELP Zaful Zales Zap Surveys Zaxby's Zipcar Zulily Zulily Portal littlewanderers GC Gen + Checker uPlay
submitted by Bugz619 to Openbullet_Repository [link] [comments]


2020.12.03 19:37 tagelthebagel Optimal server settings / item spawn drops and configurations for low pop PVE server

Re-posting as the mods said my last post looked like an advertisement. Does anyone have like "optimal" settings they add to Trader locations / Types.xml for spawns?
I basically have it running but for a low pop / just friends servers does any one have any good tips for spawn drops for items? I basically just ADDED everything in the mods below to the types.xml so maybe I should remove some stuff or make some things not spawn as much? Finding that balance seems key.
Also I'm coming from a 7 Days to Die background so since the population will probably be small and just a select few people playing (friends) of my servers. Any good settings / mods out there to make MORE zombies spawn / harder zombies?
I might be sorta new at it and I just looked at other PVEPVP servers and copied all their mods to mine. Any tips and tricks for event, types, xmls and other settings for Traders and such that anyone could recommend? Or is it sorta a tweak at your own risk, figure it out nerd sorta thing?
Thanks all!
Here is the list of mods I have added.
[Remastered]ArmaWeaponPack
BaseBuildingPlus
BetterSuppressors
BuildAnywhere_v3
BuilderItems
BulletStacksPlusPlus
CF
CodeLock
Ear-Plugs
FlipTransport
GasMaskAddons
GoreZ
InventoryPlus
InventoryPlusPlus
KillFeed
KillReward
Mass'sManyItemOverhaul
ModularVestSystem
MuchStuffPack
MunghardsItempack
NatureOverhaul
PowerPoleLight
PVEZ
PVEZMarkersOnVPPMap
RadZone
RaG_Hummer_Armored
SalineBag+
SchanaModCompass
Server_Information_Panel
Six-DayZ-Auto-Run
SkinInfected
Trader
TraderFixesAndFeatures
Unlimited Stamina
VanillaPlusPlusMap
VPPAdminTools
VPPNotifications
Zeroy-FishingZ
zSpawnSelection
submitted by tagelthebagel to dayz [link] [comments]


2020.12.03 19:09 Villhahallon LargerLads Modded PC Server

The server run a few mods on the server that I will list below, we are open to suggestion on server changes and mods.
So if you want to join and help us develop a great server you are free to join!
Server IP: 5.83.165.2:18000 Mods we run.
Airdrops-upgraded
CF
Community-Online-Tools
InventoryPlusPlus
NoVehicleDamage
Supressor Hybrid
BetterSuppressors
UsefulSuppressors
Modular Vest System
SQUAD MSF-C
MuchStuffPack
BaseBuildingPlus
Trader Wallet
SIX-DayZ-Auto-Runz
SpawnSelection
ZombieSpawnOverhaul
CustomCharacterSpawnFix
TraderFixesAndFeatures
Trader
Banking
VanillaPlusPlusMap
WeaponReduxPack
VPPAdminTools
No Sprinting Zombies
SchanaModParty
BuildAnywhere_v3
StaminaSettings
Code Locks
Server information panel
Global chat
Fs (stalker)
For more information please join our discord or message me.
https://discord.gg/ZhtwB46xHq
Server IP: 5.83.165.2:18000
Servername : "LargerLads"
Map: chernarus
submitted by Villhahallon to DayZServers [link] [comments]


2020.12.03 18:01 TreseBrothers [AMA] We’re a two-brother indie dev team working on our largest game yet, a turn-based cyberpunk heist RPG for the gamers who prefer smart tactics to quick reflexes. You helped us raise over $200k on Kickstarter, and we’re releasing next year. We are the Trese Brothers, ask us anything!

Hey everyone, it’s Cory and Andrew here. You all were awesome during our kickstarter, helping us raise ~$240,000 in total for Cyber Knights: Flashpoint. The year that’s followed hasn’t been the one anyone expected. But we are still on track, have hit some wonderful milestones (like getting covered by PC Gamer), and will be bringing this game to Steam Early Access next year!
If we’re new to you, 👋 we are Trese Brothers Games, two brothers who started making indie games ten years ago and have been able to grow it into our full-time dream jobs. We make deep, highly replayable RPGs like Star Traders: Frontiers (a “Firefly meets Dune” space sandbox RPG, named one of the best PC Games of the Decade by Rock Paper Shotgun).
Our next game is a cyberpunk heist RPG, with deep, tactical squad combat, stealth & hacking-filled missions, and highly-replayable stories that change based on your choices with your squad, in missions and through world events.
https://preview.redd.it/7f68qum29z261.png?width=1920&format=png&auto=webp&s=efd8dd55e30cdf65e1ff7f42726f2081403fc724
We know “cyberpunk” has gotten pretty buzzy lately, and while we’re as happy as anyone to see the genre getting a AAA game, we know there are a ton of gamers out there who prefer smart turn-based tactical RPGs to quick-reflexes FPS-style ones, and who will love the originality of our far-future, post-AI, post-eco-collapse cyberpunk setting that we’ve been working on for over 10 years. This game is actually a successor to our original mobile-only cyberpunk game from back when we were still just starting as indie developers in 2011.
So ask us anything! About Cyber Knights or our other games, about our kind of RPGs, about succeeding in this industry as an indie, doing Kickstarter right (we’ve run three now) or our ten year journey. If you like deep, challenging, thoughtful RPGs, we’re here for you.
-- Edit: Thanks all, that was a great time! Appreciate all your questions and support!
Really appreciate everyone wishlisting Cyber Knights, and if you'd like to be more a part of the journey to it, you can join our Discord (great community of RPG and tactics gamers) or follow Cyber Knights on twitter (many early and behind-the-scenes looks, plus a ton of great cyberpunk content).
Thanks again and see you around /PCGaming. =)
submitted by TreseBrothers to pcgaming [link] [comments]


2020.12.03 15:35 MidnightclubAC [PC Modded] GCC - FRESH WIPE - WeedTradersGuns+Loot+Bank

Feel free to join our active Discord community: https://discord.gg/zq8Eqd7
Mod List:
submitted by MidnightclubAC to DayZServers [link] [comments]


2020.12.03 12:04 Laurenolivia585 Auto Wreckers

Flea markets carry objects which you could require at property, neat little items that you can't find anywhere else. Effectively, there's a fleamarket to get the automobile world as well plus it really is vehicle wreckers and trash dealers. An Auto Wreckers or garbage trader is somebody who copes with dismantling busted and decommissioned vehicles.
submitted by Laurenolivia585 to u/Laurenolivia585 [link] [comments]


2020.12.03 08:08 bzzzz2018 General question about investing in international stocks

Given the amount of headlines about Chinese stocks in recent times, my question is what drives the sentiments of investors (and traders) to invest in international stocks that do not have markets in their countries? I guess my sentiment is that while some of these companies may become the top dogs in their respective countries, the growth do not necessarily affect the everyday life nor the economy around them. Is it just purely for returns? BTW I do have holdings of international stocks, but investing in these stocks certainly don't feel as tangible as investing in US stocks, which also lowers my risk tolerance international stocks (not discussing the possibility of frauds).
Some examples of Chinese stocks are the popular XPeng and Li Auto (not so much NIO as they have more talks about oversea expansion), as well as more established companies like JD, Bili. Obviously my sentiments apply to companies in other parts of the world too.
submitted by bzzzz2018 to stocks [link] [comments]


2020.12.03 05:36 ThePandaisInsane Options Explained - The Intermediates

Options Explained - The Intermediates
Alright Neanderthals, (if you understand CCs, CSPs, The Wheel, Debit Spreads, move along)
I'm back with a second post explaining option things. I was overwhelmed by the positive feedback from the first post, which can be read here. Before proceeding, you need to have a fundamental understanding of the following topics (if you can answer these questions you're set):
  • What is a call/put?
  • What is the difference between Selling to Open and Buying to Open? Which has more inherent risk and why?
  • What are At the Money/In the Money/Out of the Money for both calls and puts?
  • What is intrinsic value?
  • What is extrinsic value?
If you can't answer any of these please read the first post or simply Google/YouTube the things you do not understand. If you are really struggling with any of them and you've tried these resources please don't hesitate to message me or ask your question in the comments of the first post.
In this post, we are going to cover:
  • Credit vs. Debit
  • Selling Covered Calls vs. Naked Calls
  • Cost Basis
  • Selling Cash Secured Puts
  • Debit Spreads
Grab your phone, open up your brokerage, and follow along. I encourage the consumption of bourbon on the rocks and the listening of Mac Miller during the reading of this post.
Credit vs. Debit
  • Credit - any money that a trader collects as a result of selling an option. For selling calls/puts, if the seller places an Ask and the order gets filled, they will be credited with the money, meaning that it will immediately be placed into your account.
  • Debit - any money that a trader pays as a result of buying an option. For buying calls/puts, if the buyer places a Bid and the order gets filled, they ill pay the money for that option, and now they own that option.
Selling Covered Calls vs. Naked Calls
Covered calls are an option strategy where the trader uses 100 shares of the underlying as collateral to sell calls. The sold calls should be out of the money and always needs to be above the cost basis of the owned stock to avoid loss. This is a safer strategy than selling naked calls (selling a call when you do NOT own 100 shares of the underlying) because if the price of the stock breaks through the strike price and the buyer exercises you will not realize an immediate loss by buying shares above the strike and selling them for the strike. Lots of words, lets take a look. I, again, am going to use $MSFT as an example. This is only an example, any sentiment towards this stock expressed is solely hypothetical.
We're neutral to bearish on $MSFT and don't think there will be any significant price spikes in the underlying. We'll look at selling naked calls first. Below is the 12/31 options chain for $MSFT Calls.

https://preview.redd.it/3ogjfcs7iw261.jpg?width=885&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6b2cc8b36f737034b0f1945b8b5f46d4e72bc8b2
We think $MSFT is going to trade sideways or decrease in value, so we are going to sell the 12/31 $220.0C. You put in an ask for $4.05 and it is filled, so that $4.05 is technically immediately credited into your account. Robinhood will not immediately show this in your account because it is an open contract but as the option price changes those changes will be reflected on your daily P/L chart.
  • Best case scenario for you: $MSFT trades sideways or decreases in value, resulting in the option decreasing in value. At any point when the option is under the price you paid for it you could Buy to Close the call and that would be your realized profit. For example, on 12/15 $MSFT is trading at $200.0, the call is now worth $2.05, so you could buy to close your contract and your gain would be $4.05 - $2.05 = $2.00, or $200.
  • Worst case scenario: You go to sleep in the evening, smiling because you think you made an easy $4.05, you've figured out how to beat the market. BUT $MSFT announces that it has been contracted by NASA to put computers on the Moon. $MSFT rockets up to $300. The person that bought your calls decides to exercise, this means that you would have to BUY 100 shares of $MSFT at the current market price and sell them at the strike price, or $220.0. Your max loss would be [($300 - $220) x 100] - $405 = $7,595.0. If the price went higher or you had more than 1 open contract you could see how this is insane risk. THIS IS WHY I HIGHLY RECOMMEND NOT SELLING NAKED CALLS.
Covered Calls - Now lets say we have 100 shares of $MSFT that we bought during a dip at $205.0. We are bullish on the stock and are holding long but don't think that it will go to $220.0 from $214.0 so we sell the same call. Again, the money is credited to the account.
  • Best case scenario the stock finishes just below the strike on the expiration date and you can sell another call further out for more premium. If the stock is at $219.0 on the day of expiration, you can just sell a $230.0 call further out and collect more premium. You can continue this until you are assigned the stock.
  • Worst case? The underlying goes through the strike to $225. Your total gains for the trade would be [($220.0 - $205.) x100] + $405 = $1,905.0. Now, if you hadn't sold the call you would have realized more gains if you sold the 100 shares at $225, but only by $95. THE IMPORTANT PART IS THAT BECAUSE YOU HAVE 100 SHARES AS COLLATERAL YOU DO NOT HAVE TO BUY THEM AT THE CURRENT MARKET PRICE.
Cost Basis
  • Cost basis is the price you paid for a stock minus any credit you have received for selling covered calls, receiving dividends, etc. This is done at the single stock level.
  • Example:
    • We buy 100 shares of $WSB at $100.0 per share
    • We Sell to Open an OTM Covered Call on $WSB for $1.00.
    • Our 50% profit trigger is hit, and we Buy to Close the contract at $.50.
    • Our new cost basis is ($100.0 - $.50 = $99.5)
    • We Sell to Open another OTM Covered Call on $WSB for $1.00, but this time we let it expire worthless. Our new cost basis is ($99.5 - $1.0 = $98.5).
Cost Basis is important when selling covered calls because you should not sell covered calls for a strike price that is less than your cost basis.
  • Example: Our cost basis on $WSB after a few CCs is now $90.0 and is trading at $110.0
  • $WSB takes a little nose dive with the market and falls to $80.0. If we sell an $85.0 CC for $1.00, we reduce our Cost Basis to $89.0, but if we are assigned, we realize a total loss of $400.0 if the stock finishes anywhere above the strike price and is exercised.
Selling Cash Secured Puts
The risk associated with selling naked puts is the same as selling naked calls, but reverse. If you sell a put, the stock tanks, you are now obligated to buy from the owner of the option the stock on the higher price than market. For example, you sell a $20 put, the stock falls to $10 and the owner decides to exercise the option, you are now OBLIGATED to buy 100 shares at $20.0, when they are selling on the open market for $10. Your loss would therefore be [(20.0-10.0) * 100] - credited premium = Max Loss.
Selling a cash secured put is selling a put with an adequate amount of cash available to buy the shares if the underlying does drop below the strike and the option is exercised.
Suppose we are neutral to bullish on $MSFT so want to collect premium by selling a put. Look at the option chain for 12/31 $MSFT below.

https://preview.redd.it/uk00p9qj3w261.jpg?width=882&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8e785e8ae40260339e52dc44034187fbc63551e9
We can sell the $MSFT 12/31 $205.0P and be credited $2.41, or $241.0. There are a few things that can happen. When you do this, you will need $20,500 to be a cash secured put. (Strike Price * 100 = Necessary Collateral)
  • The price of the underlying goes up, and the seller of the option (us) can Buy to Close the contract. We have no further obligation to sell any shares at the strike price and the money that was held for collateral is released. The profit of the contract is simply the difference in the premium when we Sold to Open and the now lower premium when we Buy to Close.
  • The price of the underlying trades sideways. This will result in theta decay of the option and we can Buy to Close once we hit our desired exit price or % gain.
  • The price of the underlying drops below the strike price. If this happens you can:
    • Buy to Close at a loss to release your collateral. This might be a significant loss
    • Be assigned the stock. By doing so you have now aggressively entered $MSFT at a lower price than it was on the day you sold the OTM Put. As soon as you get assigned the shares, guess what we can do? Sell to Open a Covered Call
Some quick notes on the CSP, you should only sell CSPs on stocks you are comfortable with being assigned and ones that you are bullish on.
Selling CSPs and CCs are the fundamentals of doing a strategy called the wheel, but not a strategy I am going to get into with this post.
Debit Spreads
Debit spreads are a way to bet on the directional movement of a stock while reducing both your maximum loss and your potential profit.
Call Debit Spreads
This is done by Buying to Open a call while Selling to Open a call with a higher strike price. This allows us to use the credit received from Selling to Open (-1) contract to help lower the cost of the option we Buy to Open (+1). Look at the $MSFT 12/31 options chain below.

https://preview.redd.it/k20t4uy48w261.jpg?width=888&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cde6714f5d20c7a86651e713b226fbfe4f0b624f
We want to Buy to Open the $MSFT 12/31 $220.0 call, which would cost us $4.15 if we do not use a debit spread. BUT if we simultaneously Sell to Open the $225.0C for $2.56, we can lower the DEBIT we would need to open this trade.
  1. This lowers the debit we need to pay for our trade from $4.15 to ($4.15 - $2.56 = $1.59)
  2. This limits our max profit we can receive from the trade to the difference in the strike prices, so [($225.0 - $220.0) * 100] - $159 = $341.
Check out this example put into Robinhood desktop below.

https://preview.redd.it/fl46ylb3bw261.jpg?width=1317&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f49eba1d7ceaf4ad64aebe85fd765aad426ac3cc
Notice my absolutely God Awful drawings. We need to confirm that we have selected the right strike prices on the right expiration, and that we are DEFINITELY Buying to Open the lower strike and Selling to Open the further OTM higher strike. Robinhood helps us autists by putting a "Call Debit Spread" by our order. If it says anything but this, you fucked up. Notice circle 2, where we can see the strikes of the Calls we have chosen to Buy/Sell. Below is what it looks like in mobile.

https://preview.redd.it/3y4e47tlew261.png?width=828&format=png&auto=webp&s=1c87ee245fac4ac48067bb8ea8c7b4d10612218a
https://preview.redd.it/iltws7tlew261.png?width=828&format=png&auto=webp&s=54325eb21995aeb479c90f4f759d92fc56082155
Below is a P/L chart I created with optioncreator.com. This chart is only applicable on the day of expiration and will change depending on DTE and volatility.

https://preview.redd.it/ivge56pwew261.jpg?width=1407&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=44946041b92c31004c74fb4807d95cb7f1e2bb0e
Notice how our max loss is realized until the stock price passes through our long call, increases, then it flattens out and is capped regardless of the price of the underlying at our max profit at stock prices $225.0 and beyond.
Put Debit Spreads
The process is exactly the same but inverted. You are Buying to Open a put and Selling to Open a put with a lower strike price, but the principles are all the same. If you don't understand this, let me know and I can type out a full example like the one above.
Conclusion
I hope that this in addition to the first one have been helpful. I think these strategies will give everyone on this sub an advantage over the house we are trying to beat. Again, best of luck. Trade well. Trade with passion. YOLO but YOLO smart.
Panda.
P.S. Due to the positive response from last one I will continue to create these until told to royally fuck off. I am also creating a YouTube to explain these as best as I can and share my portfolio and my trading strategy. If you're interested in seeing them send me a message and I'll send it out when its off the ground. I will not solicit on this page ever.
If you are smarter than me and find errors (which I'm sure there are) comment so I can fix.

Edit 1: Fixed a problem with one of the pictures not uploading.
submitted by ThePandaisInsane to wallstreetbets [link] [comments]


2020.12.02 19:55 drshaks123 Should I Consider Buying a Ford Fiesta with 153,000 miles?

I passed my driving test just over a month ago and I'm looking into getting my first car to drive to and from college and I came across an advert on AutoTrader for a 2014 Ford Fiesta Titanium with the 1.0l EcoBoost engine which I've heard very good things about for around £3000. The car looks pretty good from the images but I'm aware that images only tell half the story - my question is would it be wise to consider a Fiesta with that high a mileage i.e. are Fiestas still reliable with such a high mileage and how long can I expect it to last provided I keep it well maintained?
The car's had 3 owners and has a full service history. I've had a look at its MOT History online and it seems like it was sold at around 40,000 miles to the second owner who had done quite a lot of motorway miles since the mileage increases by around 40,000 each year until 2019 where it increases by 20,000 so again I'm guessing was sold to the third owner and it's passed all its MOTs bar one in 2019, do you reckon it's a vehicle I should shortlist?
submitted by drshaks123 to Ford [link] [comments]


2020.12.02 19:53 drshaks123 Should I Consider Buying a Ford Fiesta with 153,000 miles?

I passed my driving test just over a month ago and I'm looking into getting my first car to drive to and from college and I came across an advert on AutoTrader for a 2014 Ford Fiesta Titanium with the 1.0l EcoBoost engine which I've heard very good things about for around £3000. The car looks pretty good from the images but I'm aware that images only tell half the story - my question is would it be wise to consider a Fiesta with that high a mileage i.e. are Fiestas still reliable with such a high mileage and how long can I expect it to last provided I keep it well maintained?
The car's had 3 owners and has a full service history. I've had a look at its MOT History online and it seems like it was sold at around 40,000 miles to the second owner who had done quite a lot of motorway miles since the mileage increases by around 40,000 each year until 2019 where it increases by 20,000 so again I'm guessing was sold to the third owner and it's passed all its MOTs bar one in 2019, do you reckon it's a vehicle I should shortlist?
submitted by drshaks123 to FordFiesta [link] [comments]


2020.12.02 18:04 cavt949 A List of Environmental Jobs, Job Titles, and Areas of Work

This is a list of jobs, job titles, and areas of work that are related in one way or another to an environmental career. This list is USA-focused (due to US agency references) but can certainly be useful beyond the USA as well.
There are very direct ways of having an environmental career, for example becoming an environmental scientist and working for a State agency; and many, many other ways, such as becoming a data analyst for a company that works on environmental transportation projects, a web designer for a sustainability consulting company, or a fundraising expert for an environmental non-profit. Use this list as a way to spark your personal research and creativity as you evaluate your:
  1. Interests
  2. Skills and assets
  3. The job market in the area where you wish to work (does the job exist, is it hiring, etc)
Here is the list, alphabetized:

This list is not complete, and never could be; there are endless ways and options to have a career that relates to the environment.
submitted by cavt949 to Environmental_Careers [link] [comments]


2020.12.02 15:18 slycat34 Cutter drift remedy

Mapped out a passive trade cutter and purchase/eng'd last week. Was using it a lot for this week's CG to get a feel for it.
https://s.orbis.zone/au1W (Currently second guessing the need for the mines. Every time I am interdicted I fair just fine boosting away & charging FSD [with mines deployed I cannot charge FSD, losing time])
I noticed this thing drifts like on black ice whenever I am trying to maneuver towards the mail slot or even upon launch if I am impatient with the auto-launch. I typically get closer to line up before engaging auto-dock (personally the AI line up process is wasteful with extra waypoints & low throttle).
Is there something I should do about the thrusters to help with this drifting? Or is it just the nature of this beast?
P.S.: my original trader was a T9 that had terrible turning speed, both in supercruise and lining up the mail slot, so my hope was the Cutter to be faster or better.
submitted by slycat34 to eliteoutfitters [link] [comments]


2020.12.02 11:06 AutoModerator Good Manners and Common Courtesy

[mod]
Good day, my lovely CPTers! Just your monthly AutoMod reminder that manners are a thing, and they are generally quite appreciated! First off, the wiki exists, and it can be very helpful!
Please and thank you go a long way! Whether you received pokemon from a trade or a giveaway, being polite will encourage people to host more giveaways, and interact more frequently! Along those lines, feel free to upvote your fellow traders or giveaway hosts after receiving your pokemon - it is a practical way of saying thank you, while also allowing them to post more frequently in the future.
Similarly, please do not downvote someone just because you don't like them, don't like their offer, or other similar situations. Per reddiquette: "Don't downvote an otherwise acceptable post because you don't personally like it." If someone has posted a trade or offer that you think is bad, don't downvote, and do not be rude. They will realize they need to make a better offer when they do not get any responses.
Lastly, the report button is a thing, and it even works!! If you see suspicious activity, someone breaking the rules, or rude behaviors, please don't hesitate to use the report button. It is anonymous, and will send a report straight to the mods!
That's it for today, folks! Thanks for reading, and happy trading!
submitted by AutoModerator to CasualPokemonTrades [link] [comments]